A cat who suddenly pees outside the litter box is telling you something. The first answer from every veterinary source we read is a medical one, so the order of this page matters: vet first, then the box, the litter, the location and the stress at home.
Every source we read starts here, before litter or location. Cornell's Feline Health Center lists urinary tract inflammation, kidney disease, thyroid disease, diabetes mellitus, digestive tract problems, age-related mobility issues and cognitive dysfunction among the medical conditions that can cause a cat to soil outside the box, and says a thorough physical exam and diagnostic tests should come first.[2] The ASPCA says to have your cat checked thoroughly by a vet before you try behavior fixes, and lists frequent trips to the box with only small amounts of urine, straining, blood in the urine, crying while urinating and a tender belly as signs that need veterinary attention.[1] It calls interstitial cystitis very serious and potentially life-threatening, and lists kidney stones or a blockage among the problems that can sit behind frequent trips to the box.[1]
If your cat is straining, crying, or producing little or no urine, do not wait to read the rest of this page. Call your vet.
Cornell and the ASPCA agree on the count: one box per cat, plus one extra.[2][1] Size matters more than most owners expect. The ASPCA says the majority of cats prefer large boxes they can enter easily, and VCA puts a number on it: about 1.5 times the length of your cat's body.[1][3] Cornell says kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides.[2]
Covers are a frequent mistake. The ASPCA tells owners to avoid covers, liners and top-entry boxes, and Cornell says most cats prefer uncovered boxes and dislike plastic liners.[1][2]
An open-top, extra large pan with a 2.9-inch entrance, built for kittens, seniors and cats with stiff joints, which is the combination Cornell says needs low sides.
The sources disagree on litter depth. The ASPCA and Cornell say one to two inches; VCA says at least three inches of digging material.[1][2][3] If your cat digs deep, or kicks litter out, adjust the depth and watch which she prefers.
The ASPCA says most cats prefer clumping, unscented litter with a medium to fine texture, and that your cat may prefer the litter she used as a kitten. It suggests putting boxes with different litters side by side to let her choose.[1] Cornell likewise says most cats prefer unscented, finer-textured litter.[2] If you recently switched brands around the time the problem began, switch back and see.
An unscented clumping clay litter, which matches what Cornell and the ASPCA say most cats prefer.
A second unscented clumping litter to put in a side-by-side box, which is how the ASPCA suggests finding out what your cat prefers.
Our clumping vs non-clumping guide and budget litter comparison cover the litter side in more detail.
The ASPCA wants a quiet location that is not cornered, with more than one way out, away from high-traffic areas, washers and dryers, loud spaces and food bowls, and a box on each level of a multistory home.[1] Cornell adds that the box should be accessible 24 hours a day and kept separate from feeding areas.[2] The ASPCA lists conflicts between household cats and a frightening event while using the box among the causes of avoiding it.[1] Our guide to litter training and box placement goes through the placement rules step by step.
Scoop at least once a day, per the ASPCA, and wash the whole box regularly.[1] Cornell says the same about daily scooping with clumping litter, and that ammonia or vinegar-based cleaners should be avoided because they smell like urine.[2] Our litter box cleaning guide has the full schedule.
Cornell lists territorial disputes between household cats, outside cats seen through windows, boredom or too little play, diet changes, and unneutered hormonal drive as behavioral causes.[2] The ASPCA adds moves, new animals or family members, routine changes, and a frightening event while using the box.[1] Both mention synthetic pheromone products as an option; the ASPCA says to consult your vet or a veterinary behaviorist before giving your cat any medication.[1][2]
Cats return to spots that still smell of urine. The ASPCA recommends an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors and warns against ammonia-based and scented cleaners.[1] VCA also recommends an enzymatic product, since cats have a very acute sense of smell.[3]
An enzyme spray for urine on carpet and floors; the ASPCA and VCA both say to use an enzymatic cleaner so no smell is left to draw your cat back.
The ASPCA says not to rub your cat's nose in urine or feces, not to scold her and carry or drag her to the box, and not to confine her to a small room with the box for days or weeks without doing anything else.[1] Cornell says never to hit, kick or scream at a cat, because it does not work and makes anxiety-related soiling worse.[2]
| Product | What It's For |
|---|---|
| TAILRYTH Extra Large Low-Entry Litter Box | Large open-top box with a low entrance for kittens, seniors and stiff cats |
| Dr. Elsey's Ultra Unscented Clumping Litter | Unscented clumping clay litter |
| Purina Tidy Cats Free & Clean Unscented | A second unscented litter for a side-by-side test |
| Sprinkle & Sweep Enzyme Spray | Cleaning urine accidents so the smell does not draw her back |
Rule out a medical cause, give her a large uncovered box in a quiet spot with an unscented clumping litter, scoop daily and clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner. If you have done all of that and the problem continues, ask your vet about a veterinary behaviorist.