Pick the Right Box First
VCA says the box should be about 1.5 times the length of your cat's body, with high sides for adult cats that stand to go and low sides for kittens, seniors and cats with mobility problems.[3] Cornell agrees that kittens and elderly cats need low sides and says most cats prefer uncovered boxes; the ASPCA adds that most cats prefer large boxes they can enter easily.[2][1]
TAILRYTH Extra Large Low-Entry Litter Box
An open-top, extra large pan with a 2.9-inch entrance, built for kittens, seniors and cats with stiff joints, which is the combination Cornell says needs low sides.
Pros
- Open top, no lid (the ASPCA and Cornell both say most cats prefer this)
- Listed at 23.6 x 15.7 x 5.9 inches, roomy for a big cat
- 2.9-inch entrance is easy to step into
Cons
- Low sides mean litter is easier to kick out than with high sides
- Little-known brand, so check the return terms before you buy
Fill It With Litter Your Cat Will Accept
VCA recommends a fine-grained clumping litter, and the ASPCA and Cornell both say most cats prefer unscented, medium to fine litter.[3][1][2] Depth is the one point the sources split on: the ASPCA and Cornell say one to two inches, VCA says at least three.[1][2][3] If your kitten came from a shelter or breeder, the ASPCA suggests she may prefer the litter she used there, so ask what it was.[1]
Purina Tidy Cats Free & Clean Unscented Clumping Cat Litter, 38 lb
A second unscented clumping litter to put in a side-by-side box, which is how the ASPCA suggests finding out what your cat prefers.
Pros
- Made without fragrances or dye, per the listing
- Clumping, activated charcoal for odor control
Cons
- Contains activated charcoal, so it is not plain clay; compare side by side as the ASPCA suggests
- 38-lb box is heavy to carry
Where to Put the Litter Box
Three sources, one consistent picture. VCA says one box per floor of the home, near the places your cat likes to rest, but not beside her bed or food dishes, and in a quiet spot that is still easy to reach, with at least one box she can use without being disturbed by children, visitors or other pets.[3] The ASPCA wants a quiet but not cornered location with more than one escape route, away from the washer and dryer, loud areas and food bowls.[1] Cornell says the box should be accessible around the clock and separate from where the cat eats.[2]
In a multi-cat home, VCA, Cornell and the ASPCA all use the same rule: one box per cat plus one extra, spread across different spots so no cat can guard them all.[3][2][1]
Step by Step: Training a Kitten or a New Cat
- Start in one room. VCA says to confine a kitten or new cat to a single room with the box, plus toys, resting spots, food and water, and to keep her there until she uses the box consistently.[3]
- Visit and play. VCA suggests spending time in the room with her, then supervising when she begins to explore the rest of the house.[3]
- Watch the timing. VCA says kittens are likely to go after waking from a nap, and that sniffing and pawing at the floor are the cue to carry her to the box.[3]
- Expand slowly. Add rooms only once she has been reliable, and put another box on each floor.[3]
If She Has an Accident
VCA says not to scold, shout at, strike or rub her nose in a mistake, and to treat it as a sign she needs more supervision. It also says that if mistakes keep happening in one spot, you can place a box where the accident occurred.[3] Clean the spot with an enzymatic product so no urine smell remains.[3][1]
Sprinkle & Sweep Pet Stain & Odor Enzyme Spray, 24 oz, 2 Pack
An enzyme spray for urine on carpet and floors; the ASPCA and VCA both say to use an enzymatic cleaner so no smell is left to draw your cat back.
Pros
- Enzyme formula, per the listing, which is what the sources recommend
- Two-bottle pack for more than one accident
Cons
- Not a long-established brand, so read the label for surface warnings
- Enzyme cleaners need to reach the stain itself; follow the label
When Training Is Not the Problem
If a cat that was reliably trained starts going outside the box, or a kitten does not improve after you have fixed the box, litter and location, see a vet. Cornell says medical problems such as urinary tract inflammation can make a cat associate the box with pain.[2] Our guide to why a cat pees outside the litter box covers the causes and a checklist.
Keep It Clean So the Habit Sticks
VCA's schedule is daily scooping, weekly litter changes, a monthly scrub and a yearly box replacement.[3] See our cleaning guide for the details, and a scoop worth keeping next to each box:
Van Ness 2 Pack of Giant Litter Scoops
A two-pack of giant scoops, so one lives by each box and daily scooping, the schedule every source agrees on, takes seconds.
Pros
- Two scoops in the pack, one per box
- Large scoop speeds up daily scooping
Cons
- Giant size may be awkward for small hands
- The title does not state the material, so check the listing before you buy
Quick Comparison
| Product | What It's For |
|---|---|
| TAILRYTH Extra Large Low-Entry Litter Box | A first box a kitten can step into |
| Purina Tidy Cats Free & Clean Unscented | Fragrance-free clumping litter |
| Sprinkle & Sweep Enzyme Spray | Cleaning accidents so the smell does not repeat |
| Van Ness 2 Pack of Giant Litter Scoops | A scoop beside each box for daily scooping |
Our Take
Choose a large, low-sided, uncovered box and an unscented clumping litter, put it somewhere quiet and separate from food, keep a new cat in one room with it until she is reliable, and never punish a mistake.
Frequently Asked Questions
References
- ASPCA. Litter Box Problems. ASPCA (no date shown on the page; read 2026-11-05)
- Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, Cornell Feline Health Center. Feline Behavior Problems: House Soiling (last updated January 2015). Cornell Feline Health Center (read 2026-11-05)
- VCA Animal Hospitals. House Training for Kittens and Cats (last updated January 17, 2024). VCA Animal Hospitals (read 2026-11-05)